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Calculator · appliance running cost

What does it cost to run that appliance?

Enter the appliance's power, how long it runs and your price per kWh. You'll see the cost per day, for the period you choose and per year.

Updated November 1, 2026 · Edited by Carlos Gil, publisher · formulas and rate presets checked against the sources below

Short answer

  • Cost = watts ÷ 1,000 × hours a day × days × your price per kWh.
  • A 1,500 W appliance running 4 hours a day for 30 days uses 180 kWh, which costs $32.40 at 18¢ per kWh.

Your numbers

Example values

These are example inputs so you can see how it works. Replace them with your own.

What do you know about its power use?

Usually on a sticker or plate on the back or bottom. If it lists volts and amps instead, volts × amps gives an upper limit.

30 for about a month.

100% if it draws full power the whole time it's on. Lower for anything that cycles on and off. If you don't know, measure it.

The price of one more kWh, in cents. Find yours with the price per kWh calculator; the per-kWh rate is better than the all-in average for valuing savings.

Or use a published Florida rate for the next kWh, before taxes and local fees (sources):

Result

EstimateFrom example values

$32.40 for 30 days

Electricity used over 30 days
180.0 kWh
Per day
6.00 kWh · $1.08
Per year at the same pattern
2,190 kWh · $394.20
365 days of the same daily use. Real use usually varies by season.

1,500 W ÷ 1,000 × 4 h × 100% × 30 days = 180.0 kWh; × 18.00¢ = $32.40

How this is calculated

kWh = watts ÷ 1,000 × hours on per day × share of time at full power × days × number of units. Cost = kWh × your price per kWh. With the example (1,500 W, 4 hours a day, 30 days, 18¢/kWh): 1.5 kW × 4 h × 30 = 180 kWh, and 180 kWh × $0.18 = $32.40.

Label wattage is a maximum. Appliances with a thermostat or compressor (heaters, refrigerators, air conditioners, dehumidifiers) switch on and off, so they draw full power only part of the time. That's what the "share of time" field adjusts. We don't guess it for you. For appliances with an ordinary plug, a plug-in power meter gives the real average; space heaters are the exception, because they should be plugged directly into a wall outlet.

Use the per-kWh rate, not your all-in average: fixed monthly charges don't change when an appliance runs less. Percentage-based taxes and local fees are not included.

Illustrative example: wattage alone doesn't rank running costs

Three invented appliances, each over 30 days, priced at the next-kWh price above 1,000 kWh on FPL's October 2026 rate and JEA's October 2026 rates with November fuel, before taxes and local fees.

PatternkWh a monthFPL (14.26¢)JEA (14.68¢)
A 60 W load that's always on43.2$6.16$6.34
A 150 W compressor appliance that runs 35% of the time37.8$5.39$5.55
A 1,200 W appliance used 30 minutes a day18.0$2.57$2.64

The appliance with the biggest label costs the least here, because it runs for the shortest time. Hours drive the cost as much as watts do: a modest load that never switches off adds up over 720 hours a month. When you're hunting for what's raising a bill, list what runs all day or all night before you look at what draws the most power for a few minutes.

Measuring an appliance with a plug-in power meter

  1. Plug the meter into the wall outlet and the appliance into the meter, following the meter's instructions.
  2. Leave it through a typical day or two of normal use, long enough to include every way the appliance runs: idle, cycling and full power.
  3. Read the kWh the meter has counted and how many hours it has been measuring.
  4. Divide kWh by hours and multiply by 1,000 for the average watts. Enter that under "Measured average watts" with 24 hours a day, so no on/off adjustment is applied twice.

Illustrative example

A meter shows 1.8 kWh after 48 hours. That's 1.8 ÷ 48 × 1,000 = 37.5 W on average. Over 30 days it uses 27.0 kWh, or $3.85 at FPL's 14.26¢ above 1,000 kWh, before taxes and local fees.

A plug-in meter works only for appliances with an ordinary plug. Don't use one with a space heater: the U.S. Fire Administration advises plugging space heaters directly into a wall outlet, so use the space heater calculator's range instead. For equipment that's wired in rather than plugged in, look at your utility's usage data or compare two bills from before and after a change.

What an always-on watt costs in a year

Anything that draws power around the clock runs for 8,760 hours a year, so each watt becomes 8.76 kWh. At the price above 1,000 kWh on each utility's current residential rate, before taxes and local fees:

Always-on drawkWh a yearFPL (14.26¢)JEA (14.68¢)
1 W8.8$1.25$1.29
5 W43.8$6.25$6.43
10 W87.6$12.49$12.86
25 W219.0$31.23$32.15
50 W438.0$62.45$64.30

To use the table, measure the draw of something that stays on, or add up several, and read across. Small always-on loads matter because they never stop, not because any one of them is large.

Illustrative example: is a more efficient model worth it?

Run the calculator twice, once for the appliance you have and once for the one you're considering, with the same hours and share of time. An invented 150 W compressor appliance running 35% of the time, replaced by a 100 W model with the same pattern, uses 153.3 kWh a year less. At FPL's 14.26¢ above 1,000 kWh that's $21.86 a year, before taxes and local fees.

Put that yearly figure and the price of the new model into the upgrade payback calculator. If the old one still works, the whole price counts against the savings; if it has failed and you'd buy something anyway, only the extra cost of the efficient model does.

How much of your bill one appliance is

Divide the appliance's kWh by the kWh on your bill. The calculator's example, 180 kWh a month, is 15% of an invented 1,200 kWh bill.

What it saves if you use it less depends on where your bill sits against the 1,000 kWh line. On an FPL bill of 1,100 kWh, cutting those 180 kWh takes the bill to 920 kWh: the first 100 come off at 14.26¢ and the rest at 12.26¢, a saving of $24.07 before taxes and local fees. Pricing all 180 kWh at the higher price would have said $25.66.

A sanity check: add up your estimates for the appliances you know about. If they come to more than the kWh on your bill, some hours or shares of time are too high.

Other ways to see what's using power

  • FPL customers: FPL's free Energy Manager shows when, where and how your home uses energy, and its free online Energy Survey gives personalized tips.
  • JEA customers: JEA offers a free efficiency assessment: a representative reviews your usage, then does an in-home walk through that covers behaviour and equipment. JEA says no diagnostic equipment is used, and its page doesn't say who qualifies, so ask when you call.
  • Anyone: compare kWh per day on two bills from before and after a change, such as a new appliance or a guest staying, with the bill comparison.

Mistakes that throw off an appliance estimate

  • Cents typed as dollars. The price field takes cents: enter 15 for 15¢, not 0.15.
  • Hours plugged in instead of hours switched on. For an appliance you turn on and off, count the hours it's on. For one that's always on and cycles by itself, enter 24 hours and set the share of time.
  • A guessed share of time. We leave it at 100% rather than guess. A lower number you can't support makes the estimate look better than it is; measure it, or show a range.
  • Minutes typed as hours. Enter time as a decimal: 30 minutes is 0.5 hours and 15 minutes is 0.25, not 0.3 or 0.15.
  • One of several. Two identical units cost twice as much. Use the "How many" field instead of doubling the hours.
  • A summer pattern priced for a year. Run the calculator for the days the appliance is really used, then add up the seasons.

What an appliance costs per hour

Cost per hour = kWh per hour × price per kWh. Each row assumes the appliance draws that many watts for the whole hour; for anything that cycles on and off, multiply by the share of time it runs. The three prices are examples, so read across to the one closest to yours, or use the calculator above with your exact price.

Cost per hour at full power, by wattage and example price per kWh
Power drawkWh per hourAt 12¢/kWhAt 15¢/kWhAt 18¢/kWh
100 W0.11.2¢1.5¢1.8¢
500 W0.56.0¢7.5¢9.0¢
1,000 W1.012.0¢15.0¢18.0¢
1,500 W1.518.0¢22.5¢27.0¢
3,000 W3.036.0¢45.0¢54.0¢
5,000 W5.060.0¢75.0¢90.0¢

Frequently asked questions

How do I find an appliance's wattage?

Look for a label or plate on the back or bottom. If it lists volts and amps instead of watts, multiplying them gives an upper limit. A plug-in power meter measures the actual average draw.

Why is the label wattage higher than what my appliance really uses?

The label shows the maximum. Refrigerators, heaters, air conditioners and dehumidifiers switch on and off with a thermostat or compressor, so they draw full power only part of the time. The share-of-time field adjusts for that.

How do I convert watts to kWh?

Divide watts by 1,000 to get kilowatts, then multiply by hours of use. A 1,500 W appliance running for one hour uses 1.5 kWh.

What price per kWh should I enter?

The price of the next kWh on your bill. FPL and JEA customers can use the presets from their October 2026 rates, which are before taxes and local fees.

Why is the yearly figure only an estimate?

It repeats the same daily use for 365 days. Real use usually varies by season, so treat the yearly number as a sense of scale, not a forecast.

Sources

  1. FPL residential rates, October 2026 (PDF) · checked October 31, 2026
  2. JEA rates, including Electric Rates Definitions · checked October 31, 2026
  3. U.S. Energy Information Administration, Electric Power Monthly, Table 5.6.A (released Oct 23, 2026) · checked October 31, 2026
  4. FPL Energy Manager · checked October 31, 2026
  5. JEA free efficiency assessments · checked October 31, 2026